Journal
Why the menu changes on Tuesdays
4 min
Monday is delivery day. By Tuesday we know what's good, and the menu follows.
Monday is the day we are closed, and it is also the busiest day in the building. The boats call at five, Greenside sends a list of what is ready to pick, and Holt Farm tells us which cuts are hanging. By the end of the afternoon we know what we have, and nothing on the menu is a guess.
Why not change it every day?
Because a dish needs a few services to get good. By Thursday the cooks have made the squash plate forty times and it is sharper than it was on Tuesday. By Sunday it is as good as it will get, and on Tuesday it is gone.
What stays
Bread, butter, oysters and the negroni never leave. Everything else is set on a grid of six courses and rewritten each week, which is also why the posters on our home page change on Tuesdays.
More letters.
4 min
Why the menu changes on Tuesdays
Monday is delivery day. By Tuesday we know what's good, and the menu follows.
3 min
Six days to cure a yolk
Salt, sugar, patience. How the squash plate got its sharpest line.
5 min
Meet the boat: gurnard from Pier 4
Two day boats, one phone call at 5am, and why we never print the fish.