Six days to cure a yolk

The yolk on the squash plate starts the week before it is served. We bury each one in a mix of salt and sugar, turn it once a day and leave it for six days, until it is firm enough to grate like a hard cheese.

What it adds

Salt, depth and a colour that looks painted on. Grated over roast delica squash with sage fried in the same butter, it does the job a spoon of parmesan would do, with more going on.

Try it at home

Two parts salt to one part sugar, a yolk per hollow, cover and chill. Six days, rinse, dry for a few hours on a rack. Keep them in the fridge for up to a month.