Journal
Meet the boat: gurnard from Pier 4
5 min

Two day boats, one phone call at 5am, and why we never print the fish.
Two day boats work out of Pier 4, a kilometre from our back door. They go out before light and call us around five with what is in the hold. We take what they have, which is why the fish on our menu reads “from the Pier 4 day boats” and never names a species in advance.
This month: gurnard
Gurnard is bony, cheap and delicious, and most of it used to go for bait. We grill it on the bone and dress it with brown shrimp butter. It sells out most nights.
Paying properly
We pay the boats the same price all year, calm weeks and storms, so they can plan too. It costs us a little more in summer and a lot less in winter.
More letters.

4 min
Why the menu changes on Tuesdays
Monday is delivery day. By Tuesday we know what's good, and the menu follows.

3 min
Six days to cure a yolk
Salt, sugar, patience. How the squash plate got its sharpest line.

5 min
Meet the boat: gurnard from Pier 4
Two day boats, one phone call at 5am, and why we never print the fish.