Journal
The vermouth we make each spring
4 min
Wormwood, orange and a case of Loire white. The recipe, more or less.
Every April we buy a few cases of Loire white from Clos Varenne and turn them into vermouth: wormwood, bitter orange, a little gentian, sugar and a fortifying measure of brandy. It rests for two months before it goes on the back bar.
Why bother?
Because the negroni is the drink most people order first, and it should taste like it came from here. Ours is a little drier and more floral than the bottles you know.
How we pour it
Equal parts of gin, bitter and our vermouth over one large cube, stirred, with a strip of orange. Twelve euro, and you can buy a bottle of the vermouth to take home in June.
More letters.
4 min
Why the menu changes on Tuesdays
Monday is delivery day. By Tuesday we know what's good, and the menu follows.
3 min
Six days to cure a yolk
Salt, sugar, patience. How the squash plate got its sharpest line.
5 min
Meet the boat: gurnard from Pier 4
Two day boats, one phone call at 5am, and why we never print the fish.